The thought of staying in mountain huts can be quite daunting for some. Sharing a room with strangers is not something many of us have done since summer camp. Our creature comforts of a king size bed are nice, but they do not rival the camaraderie brought on by a family style dinner after a full days’ hike deep into the mountains, nor can they top the silence the mountains offer.
Some of the best huts in the Alps can be found in the Pennine Alps (those big mountains on Switzerland’s southern border), and three of my favorites are placed fantastically on the Hikers’s Haute Route between Chamonix and Zermatt.
Cabane de Louvie
The Cabane de Louvie is the first hut we stay in on our version of the Haute Route, and is arguably the most beautifully positioned hut in the Alps. If Ansel Adams were to design a Swiss mountain scene, he would have a hard time measuring up to the Cabane de Louvie.
Nestled in a mountain pass, this hut sits on a hill just 20 meters above the frigid and crystal clear waters of the Lac Louvie. The mountains rise steeply at both of its flanks, creating a mountainous picture frame for the hut and its outstanding backdrop, the glacier-clad Grand Combin Massif.
There is no phone signal at the hut. Walk along the small ridge toward a radio tower and you will get one bar of signal, but Claudia, hut warden at Cabane de Louvie, will let you know tomorrow’s weather. This is a place to slow down and enjoy the serenity of the mountains. Sit around and enjoy the simple family style dinner. Sure, the dining room will be loud but that’s all part of the fun. We’re here to hike with new friends amid fantastic peaks, and they’re all here for you!
Cabane de Prafleuri
A very full day’s walk across the Grand Desert plateau from the Cabane de Louvie is the Cabane de Prefleuri. Though it is called the Cabane, there are in fact two huts here. The original and larger building was built to house workers excavating rock for the creation of the nearby Dixence dam, the highest gravity fed dam in the world. The smaller hut in front began operating in 2000, and is where our guests spend the night. It has 59 beds in mixed sized dorms from 4 to up to 17 people.
Dinner at the Cabane de Prafleuri is almost always vegetarian and very delicious. The hut wardens know you will be hungry and so dinner is very hearty. Still feeling peckish? The snack bar has Pringles for sale, and they have never tasted better than at 2,662 meters above sea level
You’ll notice that the logo of the Cabane de Praflueri has a very large Ibex on it, and that’s for good reason. If you didn’t see any Ibex on the walk in, make sure you keep your eyes peeled as the sun begins to set. The hut keepers keep a salt lick on a small rock on the western side of the building. Some nights there can be up to 15 ibex hopping around after the salt.
Cabane de Moiry
The climb to get to our final hut, the Cabane de Moiry, is a rocky one but well worth the effort. At first we are greeted by the original stone hut, which was built in 1928 and then expanded in 1970. At 2,825m above sea level, this hut is truly an Alpine experience. (Troy’s note – Moiry hut was the very first hike on our very first guided tour back in 1999).
In 2010, a modern addition was added to great applause. Built to harmonize with its alpine surroundings, the facade is made of copper so that it patinates over time and blends in with its rock surroundings. The wood interior adds warmth that contrasts the unbelievable views of the Moiry glacier provided by the massive panorama windows.
Though I have not stayed in all of the Alpine Huts in Switzerland, I cannot imagine many have a better view than this one. Ok, maybe the Cabane de Louvie. You’ll have to let me know!
